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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.